Trend Quantum is still produced today; however, there are two earlier, now obsolete series.
If you have the SQUARE framed aluminium extrusion, the existing Quantum handle (SKU 2056) can be modified to fit the old series handle – please review the notes in the listing body for further details.
If you have the ROUNDED framed aluminium extrusions, it is a different matter, and you will require a complete changeover to a surface-mounted solution. Here are the tips and tricks used by a customer we worked with remotely to remove and install the surface-mounted solution.
TIPS AND TRICKS: supplied by Peter with our sincere thanks
The original window latches on our windows are somewhat fragile and break easily. I was very lucky to find Mr Windows in Brisbane, who offer an extraordinary service in supporting people in my situation where the original latches and locks are no longer made. Following several discussions with Heather from Mr Windows, it was determined that the surface-mounted latch and lock system was the most likely alternative – SKU 2383.
In this process, we decided that 5-millimetre packers were probably needed also to align the sliding window locking beak with the window frame latch. The following is the sequence that I used to attach the new locks to the windows:
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Remove the window lock and locking mount
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Remove old lock and align new lock and latch
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Problem encountered while aligning the lock beak with the latch
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Solution determined
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Supplied screw and the need for another solution
Trend Quantum Handle - SKU 2056
Sliding Window Handle – Key Locking - SKU 2383
Photo 1: James Hardie original lock
The window lock with the locking pin embedded in the side of the window
Photo 2: Original lock mount in the window frame
The window frame locking hole (with its mounting frame removed)
Photos 1 and 2 show the original locking device.
REMOVE THE WINDOW LOCK AND LOCKING MOUNT
Once the lock was removed, an attempt was made to remove the whole window to access the protruding lock (see Photo 3).
Despite removing the window locks on the inside of the outer edges of the windows, I still could not remove the window. The issue appeared to be the adjusters, top and bottom, at the other (non-locking end) of the window.
I was reluctant to remove these adjusters out of fear that I may not be able to reattach them and get the adjustments right.
The small protruding screw – poking out of the window frame at right angles to the locking tongue – was removed, and a solution was determined to hold the tongue in position so it could insert into the frame locking hole in the window frame. While this is considered a temporary fix, an incredibly tough glue was used – with the aid of Blu-Tac to hold the tongue while the glue dried. Glue was attached to the back and sides of the tongue.
Once the tongue had firmly dried, the next task was to Blu-Tac the new lock over the top of the vertical slit (shown in Photo 3) and as close to the edge of the window as possible. The ‘beak’ of the lock was set into the locking position. On the window frame, the receiving locking latch was also placed on the frame using Blu-Tac, for the purpose of aligning the locking beak with the latch.
Photo 3: The locks removed and the locking tongue remaining
The small protruding screw – poking out of the window frame at right angles to the locking tongue – was removed, and a solution was determined to hold the tongue in position so it could insert into the frame locking hole in the window frame. While this is considered a temporary fix, an incredibly tough glue was used – with the aid of Blu-Tac to hold the tongue while the glue dried. Glue was attached to the back and sides of the tongue.
Once the tongue had firmly dried, the next task was to Blu-Tac the new lock over the top of the vertical slit (shown in Photo 3) and as close to the edge of the window as possible. The ‘beak’ of the lock was set into the locking position. On the window frame, the receiving locking latch was also placed on the frame using Blu-Tac, for the purpose of aligning the locking beak with the latch.
PROBLEM ENCOUNTERED WHILE ALIGNING THE LOCK BEAK WITH THE LATCH
At first, I used the 2mm clear plastic packer provided with the kit, which attaches to the locking beak, as it appeared necessary to raise the locking beak to align with the locking latch that was going to be attached to the window frame (which is slightly higher to seal the window in the frame when closed).
As expected, however, the locking beak would not lie flat against the window because of the protruding extension coming through the base of the lock plate—about 5mm. The diameter of this protrusion was about 5 or 6mm.
Photo 4: Preparing to Blu-Tac the lock beak onto the window frame
Note in Photo 4 the clear plastic packer and the circular protruding lock extending out from the base about 5 or 6mm. The 5mm packer provided by Mr Windows was then trialled, which resolved the issue of being able to attach the locking beak on the window. However, the locking latch on the window frame then failed to connect with the window locking beak as it was raised too far for the beak to connect.
SOLUTION DETERMINED
While there are no more photos, the solution found was in fact to return to the clear plastic packer, align the beak and latch positions both on the window and the frame, then drill a hole into the window to allow the protruding lock to fit freely—into the hole—and the locking beak with its packer to sit flush with the window frame.
It was then necessary to raise the locking latch on the window frame as well. Using another piece of similar-thickness plastic, I made a template for the locking latch. As I was duplicating the raising issue on both sides, I tried removing the packers on both locking beak and locking latch, assuming they would also fit together. For some unexplained reason, I needed the packers on both sides. So, with the packers and the locking beak lock sitting comfortably in its new hole, the whole system aligned.
SUPPLIED SCREW AND THE NEED FOR ANOTHER SOLUTION
With everything lining up beautifully, the final issue was the length of the supplied screws to attach both sides of the locking system onto both the window and the window frame. I drilled small holes to allow the screws to bite into the aluminium. In all cases, the packers prevented the supplied screws from effectively biting and locking into their positions. I eventually used longer self-drilling metal screws that locked both latch and locking beak into position.
REFLECTIONS
I had a fair bit of trouble with the first of the two windows—and the steps above reflect the pathway I eventually took, despite a few other experiments not mentioned above. The second window lock was very straightforward based on the solutions I used in the first window.
The following points are key takeaways I would especially note:
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Mr Windows: Don’t do anything without talking with the staff at Mr Windows first. A solutions-based company with extraordinarily helpful staff who will analyse your window issue and ask you to use FaceTime to allow them to assess what you might need. Once the parts are sent, you are invited to be advised by FaceTime on the steps you should take. This is essential, and they are very patient with dills like me!
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Blu-Tac: Your best friend when lining up latches and locks. Don’t underestimate the importance of very accurate alignment.
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Removing old locks: Apart from the easy removal of old locks, should you still have an embedded locking tongue in the side of the window, seek advice for its removal, grind it out, lock it in position, or screw it in a locked position. If you choose the compromise alternatives as I did, be sure your method is effective and not likely to fail and have old locks jam, preventing you from ever being able to open your window again!
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Packers and screws: If you need to use packers, check and re-check that locking beaks and latches line up perfectly. Depending on the window configuration and the packer being used, it is likely that you will need longer screws. As I found, self-drilling longer metal screws work very well and obviate the need for preliminary hole drilling. A caution though—make sure your screw remains perfectly aligned when drilling (to avoid screws wandering). A punch is an excellent tool for denting a small impression to prevent the screw from wandering.
End Result
With thanks especially to Heather from Mr Windows.
Peter Taylor
17 December 2024
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